^^ to the hills

 mornings are the best time to make visits

the humidity is 70% and more

the temperatures soar to 35degrees

we drive 35km North to 

 Kbal Spean

The River of a Thousand Lingas

it's a 1600m climb 

through the jungle of the Kulein Hills

over tree roots and packed earth

we pass piles of stones

considered to be lucky if yours is the highest

the river beds are carved with Hindu Gods and Deities

four headed Brahma

reclining Vishnu

and linga

thousands of them

these holy phallic symbols represent the supreme

essence of the God Shiva

the lingas sanctify and fertilise the water as it flows 

downstream to the Angkor temples and settlements

lotus flower motifs

the light was beautiful

butterflies, dragonflies

and tiny fish in the river

we find calm and rest awhile

water cascades

over the sandstone

carved by hermits in the 11th century

way up here

~~~~ lake living

we drive to the remote floating village of 

Kompong Khleang

dusty red roads are replaced with fresh water

teetering homes on stilts

steep steps and high balconies

with dogs, bicycles, clothes and all

manner of things precariously hanging on  

and floating boat houses

there is a class divide

those with floating homes tend to be poorer

everyone is busy

setting nets to catch many of the 200 species of fish

that swim in the waters

nearly half the fish eaten in Cambodia

come from this lake

at 7,400 square miles

the Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake

in Asia

green islands of morning glory 

bob and float along the waters edge

tended by their owners

picking the best stems to cook

in Khmer dishes

fishing boats whizz past

young passengers wave

it's a timeless pocket of the planet

we drive onwards to Beng Mealea 

probably the most untouched temple of all

40km east of Angkor

the sandstone walls and carvings

have been left where they fell

twisted vines and tree roots 

carvings of Vishnu being borne by the bird god Garuda

and the Hindu story 

Churning of the Sea of Milk

among the many tumbled stones

that we climb over and think about 

all those people who made these temples

the work, the devotion

Cambodia leaves you feeling very humble

💣 minesweep

every now and then

the roads are lined with stalls 

selling all kinds of things

for locals

for passing tourists

curious, we stop here

these are little golden nuggets of palm sugar

used in cooking

palm flowers are squeezed

the juice heated to a thick paste

then dried in the sun

 we drive past Khmer homes

people harvesting rice in the paddy fields

water buffalo basking in the sun

you often see these signs

and boards declaring that the site is cleared 

of landmines

this museum was founded by Aki Ra

a former child soldier with the Khmer Rouge

named a CNN hero in 2010

he really is a man to be admired 

spending 25 days each month in the minefields 

removing devices 

then dedicating the rest of his time to his family 

and the children at the school supported by 

the Landmine Museum

up to 20% of rural Cambodia is still contaminated with landmines

over 3.5 million have been removed since the 1990's

there are around 40,000 amputees in Cambodia

the museum serves to educate the public of the dangers 

that landmines still present in Cambodia today

  it shares the property with a school for 

landmine victims and their children

♀ delicate hands

we travel to East Baray

to Banteay Samre

one of the smaller temples of Angkor

it was named after the people who lived here

 intricate carvings tell Hindu stories 

dedications to Vishnu

every temple has the same carved coverings 

for the windows and false windows

in threes, fives and sevens

we hear the music of a local band

a sweet sound of traditional instruments

as we leave the temple grounds

we drive on to Banteay Srei

the citadel of women

built around 967 

and devoted to Shiva

intricately carved red sandstone

by women, for women

beautiful arches

the inner sanctuary guarded by 

monkey sentinels

tiny doorways only 1 meter high

lotus flower motifs

and sanskrit carved door jambs

a thousand years old and more

hidden away for centuries

uncovered in 1914

∏ while you were asleep

we get up early to be picked up by Borreth

and his driver Mr Don

it's 5:30am and we are on our way 

to Ta Phrohm

it's still dark but we have a torch

there's a heady resinous scent of bark

and the sounds of birds and animals

in the tall trees

we walk along the dusty pathway 

we are the only humans

 the sun rises

the temple is revealed

huge limbs of fig and silk-cotton tree

weave through the walls

it's otherworldly 

beautiful carvings 

false doorways

devatas peering through roots from a spung tree

flocks of parrots above our heads

it was magical 

we head back to our hotel for breakfast

then Borreth is waiting for us for the next temple visit

Angkor Thom {the Great City}

at it's centre, the Bayon

52 towers

each with four peaceful faces

mysterious smiles

some 2 meters high

at Baphoun, the Reclining Buddha

9 meters high, at rest

at past midday it is 37 degrees

70% humidity

time to start our way back

past the Terrace of the Elephants

to the gate

where another elephant waits to go through

faces line the bridge over the moat

a Christmas day to remember